Ovcar-Kablar Gorge

The largest part of the landscape is made up of forests and woodlands. With its diverse vegetation, it represents a true "museum in nature", in which multiple combinations of the shared habitat of biologically different tree species are present. The most prominent forest belt in the gorge is the oak belt, within which thermophilic forest communities have been preserved. These are areas under the forest of sweet oak and hornbeam (Quercetum cerris-carpinetosum orientalis).

On the limestone terrain within the same belt, the main type is the forest of Turkey oak and hornbeam (Quercetum cerris-carpinetosum orientalis). Ridges and slopes, we find sessile oak forest of the type: Quercetum petraea, and in bays and on steep slopes, the mountain beech forest (Fagetum submontanum). At higher altitudes, above 800 m, the mountain beech forest transforms into the mountain forest (Fagetum moesiacae montanum). The phenomenon of vegetation inversion is present here, as in most of the gorges of Serbia: in the lower parts there are more mesophilic forest types, and in the highest, more thermophilic forest types. An exceptional example of this phenomenon is the well-preserved relict community of maple, hornbeam and beech (Aceri-Ostryo-Fagetum). The increased humidity and the overall shelter in the limestone coves, through which numerous streams flow, have enabled the lush development of vegetation with a multitude of wood species.

One of the main features of gorges, including this one, is that they are refuges for rare and relict flora and vegetation. In the group of relict communities, an extremely important place is taken by the remains of the black pine forest, which are located on the vertical limestone cliffs of Ovčar at about 900 m above sea level. Fleeing from competition from other species, the black pine has preserved its natural habitat on the limestone cliff. Inside the gorge, just below the steep limestone cliffs and ridges of Mount Kablar, another relict plant community with a specific phytoclimate and soil called Rusci aculeati-Quercetum midgetum has been preserved, where the ground floor contains the common dogwood (Ruscus aculeatus).

The most important thing for this gorge, whether it is a coppice forest or a shrub formation, in the oak or transitional oak-beech belt, is the presence of relict species from the Tertiary period, such as: black hornbeam (Ostrya carpinifolia), white oak (Quercus cerris), sessile oak (Quercus petraeae), black ash (Fraginus ornus), maple (Acer campestre), small-leaved lime (Tilia parvifolia), redwood (Cotinus coggygria), dogwood (Cornus mas), viburnum (Ligustrum vulgare), privet (Clematis vitalba), chervil (Evonymus verrucosa) and others, so that within the national framework it has great importance as a refugial habitat for rare and relict plant species and contributes to the preservation and increase of genetic, species and ecosystem diversity.

The Ovčar-Kablar Gorge is one of the rare places in Serbia where you can find a large number of wild orchid species. So far, 19 species are known to adorn the flora of the gorge. Some of the most famous species are the kaćunak (Orchis morio), kaćun (Orchis simia), cat's ear (Ophris cornuta), bee orchid (Orchis apifera) and others.

Birds are the most important animal group in the Ovčar- Kablar Gorge area. The richness of the bird world is determined by a number of ecological conditions, one of the most important of which is the relatively good preservation of diverse habitats. Diverse forest habitats, rocks and cliffs are particularly important in terms of their importance. Water habitats are also of great importance, especially during migration and wintering periods for numerous bird species.

Based on the richness of the bird fauna, the Ovčar Kablar Gorge has been recognized as an internationally important bird area, i.e. IBA (Important Bird Area). It provides a refuge for rare and endangered bird species, i.e. species that have an unfavorable conservation status in Europe and whose main population is located outside Europe. Therefore, it is part of the ecological network of the Republic of Serbia and included in the Natura 2000 program, which forms the backbone of the European Union towards the conservation of nature and biological diversity.

The area of ​​the IBA covers 6,174 ha of protected area. The presence of 160 bird species has been recorded in the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge so far. The total number of known nesting birds is 101, while the modern bird fauna of the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge numbers 98 species. From the aspect of protection, the most important species of nesting birds of the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge are: the woodpecker (Crex crex), the grey woodpecker (Picus viridis), the black woodpecker (Dryocopus martius), the green woodpecker (Picus viridis), the peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus), the bee-eater (Pernis apivorus), and the eagle owl (Bubo bubo).

The peregrine falcon, the fastest hunter among birds of prey, whose last pair in the territory of Čačak survived precisely here, is particularly noteworthy. Once much more numerous, the peregrine falcon has been increasingly persecuted by humans in the last 10 years, which has led to a rapid decline in its numbers throughout Serbia. Thus, the population in Čačak from 4 pairs has been reduced to just one pair, which still survives in the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge. The peregrine falcon's main prey are pigeons, which it hunts exclusively in flight, diving vertically from great heights. This makes it particularly hated by pigeon breeders, whose persecution represents the greatest threat to this species. During the autumn period, when bird migration is in full swing, as well as the winter period, numerous unusual bird species that are not part of the local bird fauna can be observed in the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge. Black stork (Ciconia nogra), white-tailed swan (Haliaeetus albicilla), whooper swan (Cygnus cygnus).

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About 40 species of mammals live in the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge. All species have great ecological, biogenetic, faunistic, scientific, hunting and other importance. From the aspect of protection, species of international and national importance are particularly important. The most important representative of this animal group, from the aspect of international and national protection, is certainly the otter (Lutra lutra), which is an endangered species throughout Europe. The greatest threat to this species is the destruction and disappearance of suitable habitat, so the best protection measure is the establishment of special protection areas. By implementing appropriate protection measures in the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge, conditions have been created for the survival of the otter in this area. Also included in the group of species whose habitats require protection are the greater (Rhinolophus ferrumequinum) and lesser (Rhinolophus hipposideros) horseshoe bats, the long-eared myotis (Myotis bechsteinii) and the greater mouse-eared myotis (Myotis myotis).

The wildcat (Felix silvestris) is one of the rarest and most endangered species of mammals and the only species of the cat family that inhabits this area. This once numerous and widespread species has disappeared from the fauna of many regions of Serbia due to uncontrolled hunting. Thanks to the complete ban on hunting in the protected area, this mysterious animal still adorns the fauna of the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge. The reptile fauna is enhanced with 4 species of lizards, 5 species of snakes and 2 species of turtles. The only venomous snake in this area is the horned viper (Vipera ammodytes), which is also the most venomous snake species in Europe. The horned viper is particularly numerous on the sunny rocky slopes and screes of Kablar, while it is rare on the Ovčar side of the gorge. The most important species in the reptile fauna from a conservation perspective are the hermann's tortoise (Testudo hermanni) and the common pond turtle (Emys orbicularis). Both species are significantly endangered throughout Europe and require special habitat protection through the designation and sustainable management of special areas under protection (Special Areas of Conservation). One of the more interesting species of lizards in this area is the short-legged lizard (Ablepharus kitaibelii). This secretive species of lizard has very reduced limbs that it hardly uses, so it moves with snake-like body movements. It is active at dusk and its main food is insects and small snails.

Amphibians are the smallest group of vertebrates in the fauna of the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge. So far, 9 species have been registered, of which the most important from a European and national perspective are the Alpine marmot (Ichtyosaura alpestris) and the yellow-bellied toad (Bombina bombina). Both species have similar habitat requirements. They live in forest ecosystems and use temporary ponds and water basins for reproduction. West Morava, with its distinctive meanders and lake complex, is the most important hydrological component of the area. The Ovčar-Kablar Gorge encompasses 14 km of the West Morava river course.

By damming the West Morava with two concrete dams, the reservoir lakes Međuvršje and Lake Ovčar were created. 34 species of fish from 9 families have been recorded in the waters of the protected area. Of the total number of registered species, 28 belong to the native fish fauna of this area, while 6 species have been introduced (grey carp, crucian carp, grass carp, Amur carp, sunfish, American catfish). These lakes have long been known as attractive fishing spots and are rich primarily in carp species. The most common carp species are: carp, crucian carp, bream, scobalj and others. Brown trout is present in the protected area only in Banjski potok.

This 5 km long watercourse was stocked with juvenile trout in 2012 and special monitoring was introduced to ensure the survival of this species in the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge area. Species whose populations were previously numerous and widespread in the waters of the gorge, but are now present only in traces or have completely disappeared are: tench (Tinca tinca), redfish (Scardinius erythrophthalmus), large spiny lobster (Zingelzingel) and manic (Lota lota). At the end of the twentieth century, intensive fishing, inadequate stocking and changing environmental conditions significantly disrupted the ecological relationships in the waters of the Ovčar- Kablar Gorge, which led to a decline in the number and disappearance of these fish. Tench and large spiny lobster are endangered and strictly protected species in Serbia, which require special protection programs to ensure their survival.

The fauna of the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge is adorned with over 70 species of butterflies, grouped within five families, or 50 genera, which represents over 35% of all butterfly species recorded in Serbia. A large number of species inhabiting this area have some of the statuses of endangered taxa in our country, while certain species are listed as endangered at the European level.

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